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Venice is built on 117 small islands and has some 150 canals and 409 bridges (only three of which cross the Grand Canal). The historic centre is divided into six sestieri (quarters): San Marco, Dorsoduro, San Polo, Santa Croce, Cannaregio and Castello. It covers a deceptively small area - if you don't get lost (which you will!), walking from Cannaregio in the northwest to Dorsoduro in the south should take only 30 minutes. The city's 'main street' is the Grand Canal, which passes each of the districts as it twists along the length of Venice from the railway station to San Marco. Venice goes well beyond the six sestieri. The shallow waters of the Laguna Veneta are dotted by a crumbling mosaic of islands, including Murano, Burano and Torcello. Acting as a breakwater to the east is the long and slender Lido di Venezia, stretching south for some 10km (6mi) to the similarly narrow Pellestrina. This in turn dribbles down to the sleepy mainland town of Chioggia, marking the southern-most point of the lagoon. Spreading inland from the Laguna Veneta is the rather humdrum industrial town of Mestre, where the day-to-day 'life' of the city increasingly takes place. Mestre's southern half is occupied by Porto Marghera and its massive shipping docks.

Venezia, La Serenissima, Queen of the Adriatic, captivating city of canals and palaces...or tawdry sewer alive with crowds and charlatans? Venice's nature is dual: water and land, long history and doubtful future, airy delicacy and dim melancholy. When this precious place sinks, the world will be the poorer.

For a thousand years the city was one of the most enduring mercantile sea powers on the face of the earth. Today the brilliance and influence have long since faded, leaving a town of tarnished glories, out of time and out of place, so achingly beautiful it's hard not to look for the back of the set.

If you get caught up in the never-ending flow of visitors tramping the narrow main thoroughfares Venice can be the epitome of hell. Step off the main drag, however, and you'll discover the subdued, shabby charm of the real Venice, where baroque backstreet churches are framed by lines of washing flapping in the breeze.