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Dublin lies on the east coast of Ireland, with Greater Dublin sprawling around the arc of Dublin Bay, bounded to the north by the Howth hills and to the south by the Dalkey headland. The city is split - physically and psychologically - by the river Liffey; the north has traditionally been poorer and the south wealthier. Two canals - the Grand Canal in the south and the Royal Canal in the north - form semi-circular arcs around the centre. North of the river, the most important streets for visitors are O'Connell St, the major shopping thoroughfare that leads to Parnell Square, and Gardiner St, a B&B and hostel hotspot. To the west, the Smithfield area is emerging as a tourist magnet. Busáras, the main bus station, and Connolly station, one of the two main train stations, are near the southern end of Gardiner Street.

Immediately south of the river is the hub of Dublin, Temple Bar, where you'll find a concentration of pubs, restaurants, shops and a number of art galleries. Nearby Trinity College is at the southern end of Grafton St, the city's most exclusive shopping street. On the south side you'll also find the best examples of Georgian Dublin, with stately houses and elegant parks.

In the wake of a remarkable economic boom, Dublin's landscape has changed immeasurably over the past decade. The Irish Republic's capital and its heart, Dublin now ranks among the top tourist destinations in Europe, and for the first time people are flocking to rather than away from it.

The city's burst of prosperity gave it a new confident sheen, but what remains special is the spirit of the people, who ensure that despite whirlwind changes, Dublin remains one of Europe's most down-to-earth, friendly and accessible cities.

Dubliners are intensely proud of their history and their town. At first glance, it may not seem much to brag about, but a little exploration reveals pockets of Georgian grace, a series of priceless pubs, a proud cultural life and a plethora of open-armed, open-hearted people who will put serious dents in your cynicism.